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Be Like Chris: Sharing a Personal Guide to Living in Buriram, Thailand

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30th April 2021. Almost 3 years ago now and when my current journey inside Thailand began in earnest. 3 years, but feels like yesterday. Time sure does fly when you’re having fun.

Let me rewind. In the spring of 2021, I had already spent 15 slow months at home in Ireland as on-off COVID lockdown restrictions tested patience and threatened to keep entire populations on edge for the foreseeable future. Having returned home in January 2020 after over 3 years teaching in China, I was now at a crossroads—a crossroads that, because of COVID and the lack of much international travel, had few turns. 


BFITS Thailand Teacher Chris having an incredible time island-hopping and sightseeing

BFITS Thailand Teacher Chris having an incredible time island-hopping and sightseeing.

Knowing I wanted to continue teaching overseas, I researched more and more about possible destinations and discovered at that particular time to have 3 realistic options that I could travel to. South Korea, Somalia, and Thailand. Having previously vacationed in Thailand in early 2018 and having thoroughly enjoyed my time there, it was a no-brainer for me to return to ‘The Land of Smiles’ but to do so this time with the intention of a much longer stay.


From BFITS Thailand Teacher Chris, I'm never going home.

This sentiment still holds true today.

So, as stated at the beginning of this blog, I arrived at Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport on Friday, 30th April 2021, and the start of my teaching career here in Thailand would begin. For the next few months, I would have an incredible time island-hopping and sightseeing, some of which you can see in the photos I have attached to this blog entry.



Becoming Part of the BFITS Thailand Teaching Team

BFITS Thailand Teacher Chris Whearty acting as one of the mentors during an Open House Competition

As the weeks turned to months, I knew it was time for me to start teaching again, as it was the primary reason I had travelled to Thailand. Soon, I was lucky enough to secure employment with BFITS as a Math teacher. At this moment in time I was living in Khon Kaen City, a city located in the northeastern part of Thailand known as Isaan. The school I would be teaching at was named Buriram Pitthayakhom (BP) School and was to be found in the aforementioned Buriram. 

I consider myself a student of geography and have travelled extensively in the past, but I had never been to Buriram before and had little knowledge of the area. What I would find upon moving to the city to take up my employment would greatly enhance the next few years of my work and personal life as I discovered all the intricacies of living here in the Isaan region and, in particular, the city of Buriram.

Please allow me to delve further into that in the rest of this blog post. I will discuss the region’s culture and history and its unique place in Thailand, the cost of living, the attractions, and the food here in Buriram.



Culture and History of Buriram, Northeastern Thailand (Isaan)

A map highlighting the Isaan region of Thailand (Map courtesy of Nation’s Online)

A Map highlighting the Isaan Region of Thailand (Courtesy of Nation’s Online)

Northeast Thailand, or Isaan as it is widely known, consists of around 20 provinces, of which Buriram is one. To the north and east lies Laos, while to the south, Isaan is bordered by Cambodia.

Isaan has a rich history. Its location determined that it sat near the heart of the old Khmer Empire, and to this day, you can still find an abundance of Khmer ruins scattered throughout the region. A distance of about 65 km from Buriram City will bring you to Muang Tum, an extremely well-preserved Khmer temple dating from the 10th—11th centuries.


Prasat Muang Tum, an hour’s drive from Buriram City centre.

Prasat Muang Tum, an hour’s drive from Buriram City Centre (Courtesy of RenownTravel)

Sitting as it does on the southern tip of Isaan, Buriram Province shares a land border with Cambodia, and the world-famous Angkor Wat temple complex in Siem Reap is approximately 300 km from the city of Buriram, making it reasonably accessible. To give that some context, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon (Bangkok) is about 390 km from Buriram.

While not as popular on the tourist trail as other Thai locations such as Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Phuket, Pattaya, and Krabi, Isaan is also, in the eyes of many, the most authentic of Thai experiences. Old traditions, passed through generations, remain alive and well in this part of the country. It occupies roughly a third of the country.

In Buriram, my home for over 2 years now, life runs at a leisurely pace. Isaan time. The people are extremely friendly and although I have yet to master the language or, being honest, even grasped it, I have always felt welcome and never felt threatened, except by the roaming packs of street dogs who gather at night. 

My unease with street dogs can be overcome, as can the language barrier with a few helpful phrases and a smile, but I must point out that in this part of Thailand, the language has been heavily influenced by the populations’ Khmer and Lao counterparts, particularly in northern Isaan. People in Buriram are fiercely proud of their heritage and the history of where they come from.

Merit-making is still very important here, and as a foreigner in these parts, it is important that I respect that. However, as stated earlier, my assimilation to my surroundings has been made very easy over the last number of years due to the warmth of the local people and indeed, the other foreigners who have made Buriram their home. 



Enjoying the Thai Cuisine in Isaan

Teacher Chris enjoying the Thai Cuisine in Buriram, Thailand

Despite how I may look, I am VERY happy here.

Thai cuisine may appear simple, but it is, in fact, a very clever combination of many different ingredients, a melting pot of sweet and sour, of bitter and spicy flavors that make each dish unique and unforgettable. The list of world-famous Thai dishes is extensive. A short trip here, and you are sure to encounter pad thai, tom yum, or the many Thai curries. Of course, Buriram is no different. Here, you can experience all of your favourite dishes and more with a little Isaan twist. 

Here in Buriram, there are a few ingredients and flavours that tend to dominate the cuisine landscape. Chili peppers, shrimp, sticky rice, and peanuts, to name some. An extremely popular dish here is som tam. It is a spicy papaya salad consisting of the ingredients I mentioned above, along with a few more, such as beans and tomatoes. The preparation for this dish is half the fun as you must pound everything together in a bowl before you serve (or eat!). 

People in Buriram love a good grilled fish, and a personal favourite of mine is Isaan sausage, a pork and rice sausage prepared as small balls, sometimes joined together (though usually broken apart) and cooked on a grill. There is an abundance of food choices here in Buriram. There are a number of night markets selling food and fresh produce, fruits, and vegetables for home cooking. And if you want to try them out yourselves, check out some of the articles below that will definitely guide you:



There is a walking street on Saturdays and Sundays where, again, there is a great selection of food along with clothing and other accessories available. There are restaurants and bars selling a mix of local cuisine along with more foreigner-friendly dishes for the less adventurous. There are Italian restaurants, there is a bar/restaurant specialising in Indian curries and there is a Mexican place doing the best burritos this side of the Mexican border. The best pizza I have ever tasted was in Buriram. 


Shabu is ubiquitous here in Buriram. And it’s very, very tasty

Shabu-shabu is ubiquitous here in Buriram. And it’s very, very tasty.

There are many cafes and coffee houses, including a cat cafe. Buy a coffee, rub a cat. It does what it says on the tin. Bars and clubs are plentiful, catering to all tastes, and prices are more moderately priced than in other parts of the country.



Exciting Attractions and Activities Around Buriram

Chang Arena (Courtesy of Matichon Online)

Chang Arena, a.k.a. Thunder Castle, home of Buriram United F.C. (Courtesy of Matichon Online)

Buriram is primarily a football and racing city. Buriram United, the current champions of the Thai Premier Division, play their home games at Chang Arena and a visit here is a must for anybody with even a casual interest in the sport. The city is crazy for its football team, and I have seen more Buriram United football tops on the locals here than Barcelona jerseys on the streets of Barcelona. Tickets can cost as little as 100 Thai Baht, and the atmosphere is electric, with a raucous home crowd at every game. 

Alongside the stadium is the Chang International Circuit, which was opened in 2014 and plays host to many races, the highlight of which is the Thai Moto Grand Prix, which takes place each year in late October. For 3-4 days, the city is awash with tourists for this particular race, and there is a great atmosphere created at the racetrack and, of course, in the restaurants and bars in the city. Both the football stadium and the racetrack are located a mere 5 km from the city center, and I’ve walked there before. 


Photo from The Bear Travel_Phanom Rung Historical Park_A Historical and Spiritual Journey in Buriram

Phanom Rung Historical Park (Courtesy of The Bear Travel)

As I mentioned earlier, there are a large number of Khmer ruins in Buriram and its surrounding provinces due to its proximity to the Empire in the past. Phanom Rung Historical Park is Thailand’s best-restored and most important Khmer temple complex located approximately 70 km from the city centre. It was built during the reign of the same King responsible for the construction of Angkor Wat so He was obviously somebody who had a keen eye for such things. I have previously mentioned Muang Tum, another Khmer temple. It is a short drive between there and Phanom Rung.

So a perfect Saturday might see you explore some of these ancient and historically significant temples before heading back to town where you could grab some street food before heading to Chang Arena to watch a football game.

Finally, a short grab ride into the city centre could allow you to enjoy some live music in any number of bars until the early morning hours.



Cost of Living and Accommodation in Buriram, Thailand

Be Like Chris_Experience the Magic of Songkran, Thailand's Biggest Water Festival!

I believe the last time I shaved was during the
Songkran Water Festival in April

I don’t shave anymore. I stopped shaving about 3 months ago. Or I should say that I stopped shaving myself about 3 months ago and now I visit a barber close to where I live where for the not-so-princely sum of 40 baht ($1.12) I have it done for me once a week. 

Obviously, when compared to countries in the West, the cost of living in Thailand is pretty cheap and although I cannot speak for prices in Bangkok, as I have never stayed there for any longer than 2 weeks, I can relate to you the costs I pay here for accommodation in Buriram.  

I live in a single room in a hotel with an adjoining bathroom. I pay a base monthly rent of 3,500 baht (based on staying for a minimum of 4 months) with electricity and water on top of that. Water has always been 100-150 baht/month, and my electricity bill has never exceeded 1,200 baht, meaning my cost all-in per month is always less than 5,000 baht. May I add I live right beside the city’s train station and within a 15-minute walk of the bus terminal.

The place where I live is pretty basic, but it has all I need: a double bed, air conditioning, a medium-sized fridge, good shower facilities, and great Wi-Fi. I have a very small balcony and a serious pigeon problem on it, but all is good. There are lots of choices. There is a more upscale hotel across the street from me. It charges 7,000, 8,000, or 9,000 baht a month, depending on the size of the room you choose. All bills are included in these fees, and they will clean your room and change the bed linen twice a week, on days of your choosing. 

I know another hotel (Sita Princess Hotel, Buriram) that has apartments located by the hotel but separate from it. They charge a base rate of 4,500 baht a month with bills on top of that, but you have access to the hotel’s outside swimming pool, which is an added bonus here. I had a lunch party in this hotel in early March, and it seemed clean and nice. A colleague of mine rents a private 3-bedroom house with 2 friends here, and it costs about 15,000 baht a month with bills on top.



Looking Forward to New Beginnings in Buriram

Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) is only a couple of flights away from Buriram, Thailand.

Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia) is only a few flights from
Buriram, Thailand.

Buriram and Isaan, in general, are seen as having a slower pace of life than the major hubs of Thailand, but this has its advantages in terms of lifestyle in some meaningful ways. There is no insane traffic to contend with on the morning and evening commute to and from work, and as pointed out, the cost of living is, by all accounts, much more controlled. 

Buriram has a small domestic airport approximately 45 km from the city, which flies to a number of internal destinations, including Bangkok. When holidays arrive or even on long weekends I can travel far and wide and my exit points from Buriram include train, bus and plane options. A VIP bus to Bangkok takes roughly 5 hours and costs 500 baht. 

This is Buriram in 2024. I greatly enjoyed my stay here and have committed to living and working here for the years to come. If anybody reading this has any further questions regarding Isaan in general and Buriram in particular, please do not hesitate to contact me.

I hope you have a great start to the term! I look forward to enjoying the rest of the academic year as a BFITS Teacher with old and new colleagues


About the Author
Christopher Whearty

Christopher Whearty

Chris is a Math teacher from Ireland. After working in China for over 3 years, he moved to Thailand in April 2021 and has been part of the BFITS team since shortly after that. What he likes most about Thailand is the weather, the food, and the genuine warmth of the local people.
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